GROWING
The story of coffee begins with the coffee tree. The coffee tree has deep green glossy leaves and fragrant white blossoms. When these blossoms fall from the tree they are replaced by clusters of small green fruit, called cherries. After the fruit has become a dark purplish red, it is ripe and ready for hand picking. Each cherry contains either male or female coffee beans, much like an ordinary cherry contains a seed.
Female coffee beans are found inside cherries with two chambers. The female bean has an oval shape and is flat on one side. If the cherry has only one chamber, the bean is male and is called a peaberry. The peaberry is smaller and rounder like a rugby ball, than its female counterpart. All peaberry coffees are available via tediously hand-sorting the beans.
There are two species of coffee trees that account for the vast majority of the world's coffee supply. Even though these two species have many similar characteristics, they each produce a very different and distinct product.
The first species of coffee is Coffea arabica. This is the original coffee tree, named after its native region. This species grows naturally in areas characterized by low precipitation, moderate temperatures, and high elevation. This environment causes the fruit of the Arabica tree to mature slowly. The resulting bean is thus denser, more flavorful, and more fragrant than the other species of coffee. However, the yields from this tree are small, prone to disease, frost damage and are the most difficult to farm and harvest. Despite these fragile qualities, the world’s finest coffees come from the Arabica stock.
The other major species of coffee is Coffea robusta. This species can grow in many environments, being quite hearty and produces a more frequent and plentiful yield. The quality and flavor of the Robusta bean is, however, inferior. Coffee produced from these beans tend to have a woody flavor, often characterized a “burnt rubber” taste. Most of Robusta stock is purchased by large commercial coffee manufacturers to be used as a major component of the cheapest coffees, especially instant coffees.
HARVESTING
Just as any fruit has a season, so does coffee. Coffee crops are harvested anywhere from one to five times a year, depending upon the temperature, elevation and moisture of the tree’s environment. Because of the slow maturation of the fruit of the Arabica species, it is generally harvested once a year. Most coffees are picked entirely by hand, as machines have yet to develop the ability to discern between ripe and unripe cherries.
After the coffee is picked, the coffee bean is removed from the fruit casing using one of two methods.
The Dry Method If the dry method is used, the cherries are spread on the ground or on trays to dry for two or three weeks. It is during this time that the process called fermentation occurs. The dried cherry is then milled to remove the fruit pulp from the coffee bean. About 65% of the world's coffees are produced by this method.
The Wet Method With the wet method, the cherries are placed in large concrete tanks to ferment for 12-24 hours. Following this, the cherries are washed in water and drained. The cherries are then dried briefly and milled to take the softened fruit from the coffee bean.
“Washed” coffees, as those produced by the wet method, often tend to be more finely flavored than those produced by the dry method. There are two fundamental reasons for this. First, when the wet method is used, it is relatively easy to control fermentation. The dry method provides less control over the fermentation process, and the risk of over fermentation is high. Second, coffee prepared by the wet method uses only ripe cherries, whereas the dry method may use immature and overripe cherries. After milling, the coffee is sorted and graded.
Harvesting and preparation facilities vary greatly from country to country. Financing, water supply, and available labor can be major influences on the final product.
SORTING AND GRADING
Coffee is sorted and graded so retailers and consumers do not have to personally inspect every single bag. Grading systems vary from country to country, and can be confusing at best. Depending on the country in question, alphabetical, numerical, geographical, or altitudinal grading distinctions may be used. However, it is important to note that none of these distinctions are used with any uniformity among the different coffee-producing countries. For example, "AA" which signifies beans of the largest size in Kenya is used to designate beans sorted to all the same size (small or large) in India.
According to the country's standards, coffee is sorted either by hand or machine according to size, type, and quality. Just as grading may vary from country to country, the quality of the coffee bean may vary within the country. This variation in bean quality is due to the diverse range of environmental conditions within the country and the particular region in which the coffee grows.
PURCHASING
After the coffee has been sorted and graded, it is packed into bags, approximately 132 pounds each, and transported to the nearest port for shipping. We spend vast amounts of time and effort selecting and purchasing coffees. We look for the following characteristics, which are considered to be indicative of a superior coffee:
- The coffee is grown at high altitudes, which produces a dense, flavorful bean.
- All beans are uniform in size and color.
- Foreign matter (leaves, stones, twigs, etc.) has been removed, and the beans have been polished to remove the silver skin, a thin membrane which covers the bean.
Most coffee purchased by Cafe Moto is acquired from foreign countries as very little is grown within the United States. Coffee acquired from foreign sources must legally be purchased through government licensed coffee brokers. These brokers, dealing directly with the country of origin, arrange for samples of various coffees to be sent to us before a purchase is made. We then roast and cup the coffees side by side, enabling us to select exact lots of coffee worthy of purchase, and eliminate those coffees that do not meet our strict quality standards.
ROASTING
At Cafe Moto, we roast in small batches, 4-5 days per week. This ensures that the coffee on hand is always the freshest possible. Each of our coffees is roasted to the exact specifications developed for that particular coffee. Our goal is to liberate the special flavors of each varietal or blend through roasting specifics. Many of our coffees are roasted to a "Full City" roast, which is somewhat darker than most American roasts. We also employ even darker espresso and French roasts for certain blends.
Our roaster operates very much like a clothes dryer. A rotating drum tosses the coffee around the roasting chamber as a gas jet heats the chamber to approximately 485 Fahrenheit. The coffee goes through several distinct phases in roasting, initially characterized by a loss of moisture from the bean. As the moisture turns into steam and expands, the whole bean is forced to expand and a distinctive "cracking" sound can be heard. At this point, the bean gets somewhat larger and begins to darken. As the bean increases in temperature, its color gets darker and oils start to develop on the bean. This process is called pyrolysis and is the essence of coffee roasting, where timing is crucial. The roaster must control the amount of time the coffee spends in the roaster, until it reaches the correct temperature and depth of roast. As soon as it reaches this point, the coffee is quickly cooled, and immediately packaged into sealed valve bags, to ensure maximum freshness.
TASTING
The great joy of coffee drinking lies in the huge variety of coffees available to the consumer. Each coffee has distinctive attributes, and it is fascinating and enjoyable to learn about and appreciate the various types available. Taste is subjective; however, coffee drinkers have, over time, developed methods to judge and compare various coffees.
One important variable, which directly affects flavor, is acidity. Many of the flavors we associate with fine coffee come from the acids present in the coffee bean and the development of acidity during the roasting process. Acidity is a point of great distinction among coffees.
Another tasting characteristic is known as body. This refers to the sensation of the coffee in the mouth, a fullness or heaviness on the tongue. Again, some coffees are heavier bodied than others, and can be judged against one another in this way.
From here, tasting terms get more ambiguous and subjective. Aroma, flavor, and balance are concepts used frequently but are nearly impossible to communicate except as concepts. Truly, the only way to perceive coffee is to taste it, and descriptions are largely unsatisfactory.
You will notice that coffees from a particular geographical area often share common flavor characteristics. Central American coffees are known for their brightness in acidity, while African coffees are typically fruity or winy. In contrast, Pacific coffees are known for their low acidity and full body.
Again, the best way to learn about coffee tasting is to do just that, taste. We at Cafe Moto encourage sampling and dialog about coffee flavors, rather than relying on descriptions.
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